In tough economic times, it often seems that some fine restaurants struggle until they finally shut their doors, while at the same time, some places simply thrive. Red Agave is thriving. Even on a Thursday night, getting a table can be a challenge.
The place exudes a near-the-railroad charm: industrial funk, easy, unpretentious. It’s small, seating maybe 60 when the bar is packed. The decor is Southwest warmth, colors of sandstone, burnt sienna, black ceilings, the walls adorned with intriguing paintings by ex-graffiti artist Jimmie Mack
The bar fills quickly. The sting of waiting for a table can be salved by sampling from among the 21 available tequilas or testing the long list of creative cocktails. Some people stand in the door, anxiously eyeing lingering diners. But happy guests with tables rarely rush—Red Agave inspires the full dining experience, from cocktails to dessert, and maybe a little toddy to top off the meal.
Owner Brian Hebb works at his success: he’s on the floor, at the door, taking tables, running drinks. That may be why he’s rail-thin and feels “like my head is coming off,” but he’s also so pleased with business that he’s opened a new place, Cowfish Espresso Bar and Nightclub at 62 West Broadway, near Davis’ Restaurant.
We might wonder if Hebb’s got a secret, some formula. Certainly he’s surrounded himself with a good crew. Bruce Jensen, Hebb’s “aide de camp,” is a smoothly competent server and really knows his wines; the wine list is largely Jensen’s creation, and it’s carefully compiled to support the Latin/South American menu. Jensen and Hebb have been especially effective in selecting Spanish and Portuguese whites and reds, supplemented by selected wines from Argentina and Chile.
Red Agave’s menu is divided into two sections—tapas and entrées. Fresh, local ingredients give Latin flair and flavors to small plates like the crab-stuffed Anaheim pepper with roasted tomato sauce ($12), or the pork pupusas, pork and cheese in cornmeal masa flat bread served with mocajete salsa ($7). Or diners can order “Platos Fuertes” (strong plates), full-size dinners as delightful as poblano chile relleno (with wild mushrooms, red rice, black beans, and aji panka sauce, $17). La Nueva Revolution Enchiladas, which Hebb says are “the foundation of this place,” are colorful and flavorful, using free-range chicken topped with green mole and an ancho pepper sauce, draped in melted queso barra ($19). Try Knee Deep Farm filet mignon under a pasilla pepper demi-glace with poblano mashed potatoes and sautéed greens ($28). Chef Mike Meyer also offers nightly specials made with the freshest fish he can find in the market, so he might lightly sear sashimi-quality ahi, rub it with chimayo, and dish it with arroz verde (green rice) and two sauces, mango/habanero and a pineapple/guajillo—excitement in every bite. Chef Meyer says, “I’ve learned how to blend the spiciness of the chilies with the sweetness of the tropical fruits.” And he’s really good at getting “the heat with the sweet.”
This is one factor that fills Red Agave: people who love flavor flock to the doors. Whatever the dish, flavors leap in the mouth. The spicing is deft, not heavy-handed. Surprising melds play across the palate so each bite seems new and unexpected. Desserts like Fandango key lime pie complete the theme and put the finish on dinner. Close out with sips of a lovely single-grape Spanish sherry, as satisfying as a fine port.
In sum, Red Agave is a cozy little place with exciting food. It’s simply fun to dine here, and the key to its success, Brian Hebb says, is also simple: “Fun sells.”
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Red Agave
454 Willamette St.
541/683-2206
redagave.net
